Flory Brisset: and the impossible became embroidery…

The mischievous 30-year-old says it bluntly: “In general, people don’t come to me when they know what they want!” Because, in Invenio Flory, brains are constantly boiling dust off the art of embroidery and bring it to universes that are still unexplored, untapped.

A trademark that quickly made her stand out in the – hermetic – world of historical Parisian embroideries. “I pushed the door open big fashion houses at the age of 21, with nerves, while I was in the first year of my master’s degree in fashion art at Duperré school in Paris III. Long before the era of LinkedIn that made it easy to find contacts and make contacts!

I hit the mark with the proposal innovative patternsfrom materials from industry, such as plastic or neoprene”, recalls Flory Brisset.

Dior, Stéphane Rolland, Jean Paul Gautier then Yves Saint Laurent they quickly had her working on their haute couture or ready-to-wear collections, seduced by her research “which was off the beaten path and this new aesthetic touch”. Chanel, Balmain and Balenciaga challenge her today with your innovative pieces.

Hybridization without borders

While everyone is moving everywhere, Flory is putting down roots. It has its home base in a bright loft in Pré-Saint-Gervais (Seine-Saint-Denis). An ideal playground, “modular as desired, depending on the project, meticulous as well as monumental”, a perfect synergy of studio, laboratory and workshop.

“I like the idea of ​​controlling the chain as a whole. Here we create, design, produce! We are in the unlimited hybridization of knowledge and experience – embroidery, feathers, leather, knitting, weaving – and technical processes – screen printing, molding, thermoforming, 3D design…”

A team of five people who come from different backgrounds, deals, studiously. Beauvoir and Nietzsche, house mutts, keep an eye on things. “About thirty people, freelance or temporary, are coming in to reinforce the workforce at the time of the launch of the collections, for the highlights of the year.”

Always further but… in France!

Producing in Île-de-France is her wayto anchor embroidery know-how in its historical poolwhile launching it into new applications.

“Relocation is a social and ecological aberration. Asking artisans on the other side of the world to abandon their traditional methods in order to impose our know-how on them makes no sense,” says the designer.

“There are other ways to save money, including replacement of expensive raw materials. For example, we worked on silicone bond shape memory for bas-reliefs on outdoor furniture, where we weren’t necessarily expected…”

Because Flory Brisset does not forbid any collaboration, strong in his own double degree in design. If fashion makes up 60% of her activity, the rest is the result of projects she implements in designing buildings and interiorsas recently with very trendy David T’Kintbased in Dubai.

“We improve the practice, the gesture and the result, in accordance with the evolution of taste, morals and materials. Our method is to perpetuate artistic occupations”, Flory Brisset.

The next big challenge that will be realized at the end of 2024: “Bringing life back to Château de la Guittonnière, in Deux-Sèvres. We will be able to work on large works (architecture, decoration)… Continue to hybridize the know-how, experimenting with the cultivation of plants for dyeing, to create raw materials based on plant fibers.” Flory Brisset: definitely indefinable.. .